Footings get buried and forgotten, so we get them right while we can still see them. I mark out the layout from your plans, and our crew digs the trench or the pad holes to the depth the plans call for, then clears out the loose dirt and firms up the bottom, because concrete poured on loose fill settles right along with it. Next we set the rebar, the steel bars that hold the concrete together when the ground moves, and keep it up off the dirt so the concrete wraps all the way around it. Once the inspector has seen the trench and the steel, we pour, level the top where the wall or posts will sit and keep it damp while it cures, which is the slow hardening that gives concrete its strength. We cover plants and protect the yard along the way, and we haul off the extra dirt when we're done. Nobody admires a footing, so if the budget gets tight I'd rather put the money in the trench than anywhere you'll see. Our estimate spells out the digging, steel and concrete, so you can compare it fairly with other quotes.
Sometimes the footing is one piece of a bigger fix. If an old slab or walk is in the way, we saw out only the section we need with concrete cutting, so the rest of it stays put. If the house above an old footing has already settled, that's a job for foundation raising, and I'll say so at the estimate instead of pouring new concrete next to a problem.
Pad footings for posts and columns
These are the square pads under a patio cover, a pergola, a carport or a deck post, each one carrying a single point of weight into the ground. They suit smaller projects where the load lands in a few spots instead of along a whole wall.
Continuous footings for walls and additions
A continuous footing is one long strip of concrete under a block wall, a garage or a room addition, so the weight spreads along its full length. It takes more digging and more steel than pads, and it's what most wall and addition plans call for.