We're A&M Azusa Concrete, based in Azusa, and we tear out tired driveways, patios and walks on Glendora homes and pour new ones that sit flat and shed water where they should. I come out, look at the job and write the estimate myself.
(626) 540-1248
Glendora sits right next to Azusa, so the calls here sound a lot like the ones from home. We get driveways cracked across the middle, patios that tip toward the back door, and walks pushed up by a tree that's been around longer than the concrete.
The houses run from flat streets up toward the foothills, and the work changes with them. Up the hill, more driveways climb from the street, and the water has strong opinions about where it's going. On the flatter blocks the trouble is usually water with nowhere to go, sitting on the slab or against the house, so the same driveway can be a different job a few streets apart.
Send the form or call (626) 540-1248, and we'll get back to you within one business day to set a time. I come out to your Glendora address, look at the concrete and the ground around it, and write the estimate myself. It's free, there's no pressure and no obligation to book.
(626) 540-1248Most Glendora calls are for driveways that cracked or sank, walks lifted by tree roots, and concrete patios that hold water by the back door. Driveways, patios and walks are what we call flatwork, the slabs you walk and drive on, and they're what we're best known for. We also pour steps, garage floors, pool decks, footings and retaining walls, and we cut out damaged sections when the rest of a slab is worth keeping.
Building permits and inspections in Glendora come from the city's Building & Safety Division, so when your job needs a permit, the city's review decides when we can start, not our calendar. Before work starts, we check with the city about your address, and if a permit is needed, we pull it and handle the paperwork. We're fully licensed and insured, and Glendora requires every business working inside city limits to hold a city business license, so it's fair to ask anyone you're thinking of hiring for theirs.
The price here mostly comes down to the size of the slab, how much old concrete we break out and haul off, and how much base work the ground needs. Access matters too, and so does the finish, since a broom finish, the light texture dragged across the top for grip, costs less than stamped. The schedule turns on the permit if there is one and on how long the new slab has to sit before you use it. I'll write your estimate on site, and we plan Glendora jobs the same way we do in Covina and the other cities around Azusa.
I come out to look at your concrete and write the estimate myself, so nothing gets lost between the person who priced it and the crew that builds it. Our own crew does the work, I'm on site to run it, and it's backed by our satisfaction guarantee.
The base is the part nobody sees after day one, so it's the first thing people want to cut. I'd rather cut the fancy finish. We dig out to firm ground and pack the subgrade, the dirt the slab sits on, because a pretty slab on soft ground still sinks.
I started this business in 2013 to work on homes people already live in, which means trees, sprinklers, neighbors and the occasional dog who wants to supervise. We protect what's around the work and leave the place clean. Call (626) 540-1248 or send the form.
The price comes from what I measure at your house: the size, how much old concrete comes out, how much base work the ground needs and the finish you pick. A tight backyard the truck can't reach adds labor, and stamped or colored concrete costs more than a plain broom finish. I'll put your number in writing after I've seen the job.
You apply online through Civic Access, the city's permit portal, because Glendora no longer takes building permit applications by email. You need an account to start, and once you're in you can upload plans, track the review and schedule inspections. On our jobs, that part's on us.
Usually you can walk on it after a few days and drive on it a while after that, because concrete keeps curing, slowly gaining strength, long after the top looks dry. Most of the time you spend without your driveway is that wait, not the work, and I'll give you the dates for your slab before we pour.
Sinking usually starts under the slab, with dirt that was raked level and never packed, so it settles and takes the concrete with it. Cracks in odd places usually mean the control joints, grooves cut so the slab cracks along a line we chose, went in late or not at all, and a pour in midday heat can leave a weak, dusty top. Concrete is going to crack somewhere, so we cut joints on time and pour early in the day to give it a better place to do it.
Plan the drainage before anything else, because a slab that slopes toward your house sends every rain straight at the foundation. At the estimate I look at where the water runs now and where it should go, whether that's the street, the yard or a drain, and we set the forms so the new slab carries it there. Rebar, steel set inside the slab, helps hold it together if the ground moves.
Check your address with the city on the city's fire hazard zone page, since the City Council adopted a fire hazard severity zone map. In a March 2025 update, before the map was adopted, the city reported 5,149 acres rated very high, 578 high and 555 moderate.
