We're a concrete crew from Azusa. We replace old driveways, patios and walks at Baldwin Park homes so they sit flat and send water away from the house.
(626) 540-1248
Baldwin Park is mostly homes people have lived in for a long time, and the concrete shows it. Most calls are about a driveway cracked down the middle, a patio that tips toward the back door or a walk a tree root has lifted at one end.
These yards have lawns, sprinklers, fences and neighbors close by. So most of our work here is replacing old concrete without tearing up everything around it, and that's the work I like best.
Send the form and we'll get back to you within one business day. I come out to your Baldwin Park house, look at the job and write the estimate myself. It's free, and there's no obligation.
(626) 540-1248We replace driveways that have cracked or settled and build them to drain toward the street. We pour patios and walks that stay flat by the back door. When only part of a slab has to go, concrete cutting takes out a clean section so the rest can stay. For garages and additions, garage floors and foundation installation start with the ground under them. Stamped and decorative finishes are there when plain gray won't do.
In Baldwin Park, permits go through the city's Building and Safety Division, which does the plan checks and inspects job sites. An older city notice lists work like electrical, plumbing and reroofing as permit jobs and doesn't mention concrete, so the division decides whether your job needs a permit. When it does, plan review and inspections set part of the schedule. Before we start, we check with them, and if a permit is needed, we pull it and handle the paperwork. You can check two things about any contractor here, a California contractor's license and a Baldwin Park business license, since the city requires a business license from contractors based outside it. We're fully licensed and insured.
We work out of Azusa, and Baldwin Park homes have the same thing we see there, a driveway that's often the only way to the garage, so we plan the tear-out and pour around getting your car back. The price mostly turns on how big the slab is, how much old concrete comes out, how hard the spot is to reach and how much work the ground needs before we pour. The schedule turns on the permit question and the curing wait after the pour. I'll walk through both with you when I come out.
I come out to look at your job and write the estimate myself, and I'm on site running the work. Our own crew does the pour, not a crew we hired for the week. I've run this business since 2013, and I still show up for the pour.
The subgrade, the packed ground the slab sits on, is the first thing people want to cut because nobody sees it on day one. I'd rather trim the finish than the base, since a fancy top on soft dirt still cracks, just in a nicer pattern.
We protect your trees, sprinklers and lawn while we work and clean up before we leave, because you live there after we go. The work is backed by our satisfaction guarantee. Call (626) 540-1248 or send the form to get started.
The price comes from your driveway, not a chart, so the main factors are its size, how much old concrete we break out and haul off, and how much digging and packing the ground needs. A plain broom finish, the light brushed texture that gives tires and shoes some grip, costs less than stamped or decorative work. You get your number when I come out and look at it.
You're off it from the day we break out the old slab until the new one has cured, which is the wait while concrete hardens enough to carry weight. You can usually walk on it well before you can drive on it, and parking on it too early is a good way to give a new driveway its first crack. I'll tell you the wait for your job before we start so you can plan where the car goes.
Most cracking and sinking start under the slab, when the base was just raked flat instead of dug out and packed, or when water runs underneath and carries the dirt away. Concrete also shrinks as it dries, so we cut control joints, shallow grooves that give the crack a straight line to follow, early enough that it cracks where we picked. Concrete cracks. The point is to choose where.
I start with where the water goes. I check how the old slab slopes, whether it sends water toward your house, and what's in the way, like trees, sprinklers and gates. Then we plan the base, the slope and the joints around all of that, and we settle the permit question with the city before anything gets broken.
A contractor needs a license from the Contractors State License Board when the job needs a building permit, when they use employees, or when labor and materials on the project add up to $1,000 or more. That small-job limit used to be $500, and it only covers work that needs no permit and no hired help. A bigger job can't be split into small contracts to stay under it.
The state's EQ Zapp map shows whether a property sits in a mapped earthquake hazard zone, and it also shows where the state hasn't checked an area yet. The zones cover fault rupture, quake-triggered landslides and liquefaction, where loose wet soil turns soft as quicksand during a shake. If your address shows up in one, tell me at the estimate so we plan the job with it in mind.
